Introduction to Highpower

What Sight Picture Is Best For You?

By SSG Tobie Tomlinson, USAMU Service Rifle Team Member

Which is correct? There are a myriad of sight picture options that shooters have used to great effect over the years. The sight picture that allows you to consistently shoot the smallest group, with a minimal shift in zeros, is the correct one. In the next few paragraphs we will explore a few of the more commonly used sight picture options. Remember, for any shooter to be successful, consistent sight picture must be complemented by front sight focus and sight alignment.

Center Hold – With a center hold the front sight placed directly in the center of the target. A center hold is great in different light conditions. On a bright day the target appears small. On a dark day the target appears large. In these different light conditions the center of the target is always in the center. A shooter who has problems with elevation shots in various light conditions may benefit from a center hold.

6 O’clock – With the 6 O’clock hold the front sight is placed at the bottom of the aiming black. For many shooters, this hold allows precision placement of the front sight. The ability to accurately call your shots will come with time and experience. Light changes, which alter the appearance of the target, may affect shooters who utilize the 6 O’clock hold.

Sub 6 – The sub 6 is just like the 6 O’clock hold, only there is a small line of white between the front sight and the aiming black. Many shooters have a problem determining the exact 6 O’clock position with their front sight, but by using a sub 6 or line of white they may be able to better estimate their hold.

Frame Hold – With the frame hold, just like with the other holds, the front sight is in the center of the rear sight. The front sight can then be placed at the 6 or 12 O’clock position on the frame when there is no visible aiming point. This hold is typically reserved for foul weather and poor light conditions. By placing the front sight at the top or bottom of the frame, a shooter may hold better when there is little target to see. It can be difficult to hold a tight group this way, but it may add more hits in bad conditions. This technique is normally applied when shooting longer ranges such 600 or 1000 yards.

Along with the sight picture options described above, here are some general aiming guidelines for effective shooting:

1. With all holds you must be able to see the front sight, the crisp top-edge of the front sight. The target image is second. Most people want to see the target clearly. If they do see the target clearly they probably cannot see the front sight well. You only need to see down range well enough to see your number board to eliminate the possibility of crossfiring.
2. Sight clarity can be improved with front sight size changes. A wide front sight works well with most shooters. Your vision is drawn to a wider sight and away from the target. Rear sight size changes can add to the clarity by allowing more or less light in.

3. Eye relief is the distance between your eye and the rear sight. Your eye relief is different in each position. Any changes in sight sizes must be tried in all positions. Your eye relief from shot to shot must be consistent to fire small groups.
4. You should not over hold. If you aim too long you will fatigue your eyes. Use your first sight picture. Whenever you stare at a bright object, such as a target on a sunny day, the image is being burnt temporally into your eye. Try staring at a bright object for approximately 10 seconds and then close your eyes.
5. To improve sight pictures, you may need corrected vision. The most common vision corrections are glasses, contact lenses, and eye surgery. You may also use corrective lenses in your rear sight. I have had great success with this.
6. A way to increase your concentration on the sight is to use a blinder. By relaxing the non-firing eye and lowering the light from sides, your firing eye will be more relaxed. Besides who wants to see the guy moving around next to them? Also, wear a hat.
7. You must be able to accurately call your shots. This skill can be enhanced by focusing on the front sight and paying careful attention to your sight alignment.

Whichever sight picture you use, consistency is the key. Good luck, and good shooting

Sight Adjustment and Minute of Angle (MOA)

By SSG Daniel M. Pettry, USAMU Service Rifle Team Member

People who shoot for sport, hunting, or even military or law enforcement applications have many convictions, theories and myths about what can be done to improve their ability to hit where they aim and increase the effectiveness of their choice in firearms. There is one conviction, however, where all shooters agree. Every shooter’s objective is for their bullets to impact where their rifle is aimed. This sounds simple enough and, if performed correctly, the bullet should always strike where it is aimed. Although this sounds good in theory, the truth is that many shots do not strike where they are aimed. One thing we can do to increase our chances of success is to learn how our sights work. They can then be adjusted so that when the perfect shot is fired, the bullet will land exactly where it is aimed. This article covers what we need to know as shooters to make sight adjustments that will keep our shots hitting where they are aimed.

Sights on a target rifle are adjustable in units of measurement called minutes of angle or MOA. A minute of angle is equal to 1/60 of a degree (there are 360 degrees in a circle). The easiest and most important thing to remember is that one MOA is equal to one inch at 100 yards. As you move farther away from the target, 1/60th of an angular degree or one MOA equals two inches at 200 yards, three inches at 300 yards and six inches at 600 yards. If you know your firing distance in hundreds of yards, you will know exactly how far a sight adjustment calibrated in MOA will move the strike of the bullet. That knowledge combined with knowing how far you want to move the strike of the bullet on the target enables you to know exactly how many MOA to move your sights.

In order to make the proper sight adjustments, shooters need to know their equipment. First and foremost they need to know how many MOA each click on their sights is worth. Different rifles come with sights that adjust in different increments such as ¼ MOA, ½ MOA or 1 MOA. By knowing your sights, you can figure out the amount of adjustment that is needed at any given distance. For example, with a ¼ MOA sight (quarter minute sight), each click is worth ¼ inch at 100 yards, ½ inch at 200 yards, ¾ inch at 300 yards, etc. The smaller the MOA increment is for each click on a sight the more precise your adjustments with that sight can be. Competitive marksmen use ¼ MOA sights because anything greater than that does not allow them make sufficiently precise adjustments in zeroing and making wind adjustments.

When zeroing the AR-15, you may have to make elevation adjustments that are so bold that you have to adjust the front sight. Each notch on the base of the front sight post is worth 1 1/4 MOA. This makes one full rotation of the front sight post worth 5 MOA.

Once you understand how your sights work, and how far each adjustment will move the strike of the bullet, you need to know when and why adjustments are made. Each shooter must establish a baseline zero first. This task shouldn’t be difficult once you know how your sights work. However, in precision shooting, zeros can change on a daily basis, depending on weather and light conditions. It is very important for you always know what your standard zero is so you can make those small sight adjustments when necessary.

On rifles such as the AR-15 where the sights have no real markings on them, it is recommended that you mark your sight with a paint pen or marker so you can always tell if you zero is on your rifle. This is particularly important on a rifle’s windage knob because if it is adjusted for the current wind condition, you can easily return to your zero to minimize the risk of losing track of how many clicks you moved. With practice, you can actually learn to refer to the wind by saying what it is worth in MOA instead of MPH.

Just like in any other sport or hobby, it all becomes easier with practice. Understanding your sights and how they work in relation to your rifle will become easier with time and practice. Every time a shot is fired, you increase your knowledge and experience base, which for all experienced shooters ultimately results in making sight adjustments second nature. A marksman’s goal at the range is to spend as much time as possible working on fundamentals and as little time as possible trying to figure out their equipment. Good luck, and good shooting!

Crossed-Ankle Sitting Position

By SFC Grant Singley, USAMU Service Rifle Team Member

There are two primary variations of the sitting position that are used during Highpower competitions. The variations are crossed-ankled and crossed-legged. This article covers the crossed-ankled sitting position. You may want to try the crossed-ankled position if you have excessive pulse in the crossed-legged position and/or your body type prevents you from getting into the crossed-legged position. I would also like to say that all the cool people to include myself shoot the crossed-ankled position. Note: This article is written from a right-handed shooter’s perspective.

First, the crossed-ankled position is not for everyone. Many people find that their legs are too flexible to keep their knees up off the ground. A quick test is to sit down on the ground, extend your legs and cross your ankles (left over right). Lean forward and place your elbows on your knees as if you were actually holding the rifle. Your knees need to be able to stay up off the ground in order to have enough elevation in your position.

If you find that you are “inflexible” enough to shoot in the crossed-ankled position, I will now walk you through the process.

1. Put on your shooting coat, grab your rifle and sit down on the ground facing the “target”. Try to set up the position so that your feet and body are pointing straight down range. You may pivot your feet and body slightly to the right if desired.
2. Your left elbow may be placed somewhere forward of the left knee so that the lower part of your tricep is resting across the knee.
3. Your right elbow may be placed in the bend of the right knee.
4. Your non-firing hand and butt-stock placement will vary according to your size/height.
5. You are now at the point where you must fine-tune the position. Vary the placement of your non-firing hand, butt-stock, elbows and legs until you are steady and comfortable. This may take some time. You can condition your body by getting into this position for 10-15 minutes at a time while watching TV.
6. To adjust your natural point of aim: Leave your feet in place and slide the seat of your pants left, right, forward or backward as needed.

Once you have dry-fired and feel comfortable in the position, it is time to go to the range and impress your buddies with your new found ability to shoot sitting rapid-fire. You may have to adjust your position to accommodate for the effects of recoil. Your wobble area should be mid-ring 10 or better. Again, this may take some time and experimentation.

A rock solid position will not guarantee a “10X clean” on every string you fire if you do not apply proper sight alignment and trigger control. It is easy during a rapid-fire string to get excited and break shots that are less than perfect. How can I fix that, you ask? My answer may sound simplistic and sarcastic, but here we go……. DON’T BREAK A SHOT UNLESS IT IS SITTING IN THE MIDDLE!!!! The secret is now out and DeMille’s record will fall soon. Seriously, you have plenty of time during a rapid-fire string to let the rifle settle in the middle before pulling the trigger. Work on becoming highly efficient in your shot process so that you can spend the most time possible actually focusing on the front sight and moving the trigger smoothly to the rear. If the rifle does not settle back in the center after a shot, there is nothing stopping you from physically moving the rifle back into the center and then breaking a shot. A slight amount of muscle tension with the non-firing hand and arm is acceptable and may be necessary to keep the sights in the middle after recoil.

I have not mentioned the use of a shooting mat yet. The use of a mat is totally decided by personal preference. I usually sit on the mat with my feet on the ground in front of it. If the firing point has thick green grass on it, you may not want to use a mat, but if the point is hard and rocky, the mat may help stabilize the position.

Wind (Part 1, Rapid Fire)

By SSG Emil Praslick, USAMU

The term, “Reading the Wind” is misleading. A more apt title might be “The tactical negotiation of varying wind conditions and the limitation of their negative effects on the flight of your bullet.” In this article we will discuss some tactics and techniques that will enhance your abilities to negotiate the wind and (hopefully) add a few points to your score. This article will be divided into two sections: part one will cover the 200 and 300 yard stages. The second part (forthcoming) will be devoted to the 600 yard stage.

There are as many dimensions to “wind reading” as there are stages to High Power competition. Your tactical mindset, or philosophy, must be different for the 200 and 300 yard rapid-fire stages than it would be for the 600 yard slow-fire. In the slow-fire stages you have the ability to adjust windage from shot to shot, utilizing the location of the previous shot as an indicator. Additionally, a change to the existing conditions can be identified and adjusted for prior to shooting the next shot.

1. Once you have moved your equipment to the ready line, begin to observe the conditions. Do not wait until the command, “All ready on the firing line!” to make a decision about the wind.
2. Assess the direction, value, and the speed of the wind. There are a myriad of wind charts and formulas available to determine the amount of windage required to offset the wind’s effect on the flight of your bullet. Your best estimate should be checked against that of your fellow competitors. One of your best tools is the knowledge (and the results on the target) of your peers.
   
   
   

3. An often neglected and misunderstood tool is the use of range/wind flags. Immediately prior to assuming the sitting or prone position (while standing) you will not be able to use your spotting scope to check the mirage; you will, however, be able to see the wind flags. It is important to correlate what you can see in the mirage with the behavior of the flags. Alternate between looking at the mirage of a known condition, and observing the flags. Concentrate on the details. Pay close attention to the very end, or tip of the flag. A subtle increase in the speed of the wind will not change the height and angle of the flag, but it will affect action at the tip.
4. Once you have identified a condition, both in the mirage and flags, observe its duration. Because you must fire the majority of your string without making a wind change, you must know what might result from any variance to the predominant condition. This is what we call determining a bracket.
5. Sighters, when available, should be used to determine the bracket of the wind condition. One technique is to stagger the interval of your sighting shots: fire your first shot as you would normally, and then wait until the conditions change-or just prior to the expiration of time to fire your second sighter. This will aid you in identifying the condition closest to your actual string of fire.
6. If there is the likelihood of a change to the condition, the windage you place on the rifle might need to be a compromise between a perfectly centered group and the damage a change might cause. One technique that experienced shooters employ in a changing condition is to identify the “safe side” of the 10-ring. For example, if the observed condition is one minute of wind from the right, gusting to two minutes, a savvy competitor might center his group on the right side of the X/10 ring. In the event of a pick up, the wind gust would simply move the group to the center of the target or to the other side of the 10-ring. Obviously, the effectiveness of this technique is determined by your ability to shoot a small group. This should be an incentive to train!
7. The width of the 10-ring in highpower rifle is two minutes of angle. Theoretically, a wind estimate within one minute of the correct value should result in a “clean.” In practice, the quality of the estimate must be much higher. An individual’s ability to maintain sight alignment, sight picture, and a steady position (along with the accuracy of the rifle) will determine the amount of error available to you in your wind estimate. Once again, this fact alone should be a powerful incentive to train!
8. The risk of making a windage correction during the magazine change often outweighs the benefits, especially with beginning shooters. A good performance and the ability to shoot a tight group is the origin of the shooter axiom: “A good hold is worth a minute.” As a rule, unless you can clearly see your group outside the 10-ring in your spotting scope, do not adjust your sights during the magazine change. There have been many disasters wrought from a shooter mistaking a paster; tear in the paper, or insect for a bullet hole.

Finally, although wind reading is an important shooter skill, your ability to master the fundamentals is the most important factor in shooting high scores. By trusting in your ability, talking to your fellow shooters, and concentrating on your performance, your scores will improve. In the next installment, we will discuss the different techniques required to read the wind during the slow fire stages of the National Match Course.

Reading the Wind (Part 2, 600 Yard Firing) iring)

By SSG Emil Praslick, USAMU

In the previous article, “Reading the Wind (Part 1)” we discussed the tactics and strategy needed to negotiate the wind during rapid fire (primarily 300 yards). The goal during rapid fire is to center your group in the 10 and X-ring. Your windage setting must therefore be a compromise between what the wind is doing at the beginning of firing time and what you believe it will be at the end of firing time. The 600 yard slow fire stage needs a slightly different approach and skill set to maximize one’s performance. The ability to “read” the conditions, coupled with feedback from your last shot, make this stage one of the most intellectually challenging in highpower competition.

The basics of reading the wind still apply at the 600 yard line. Shortly after arriving at the ready line, you should determine the speed, direction and value of the wind. The first task, determining wind speed, has seen competitors arrive at the firing line toting the latest in meteorological marvels. I submit that the human eye and well-trained powers of observation are the equal of any overpriced anemometer (a fancy word for a “wind meter”). The following list of the effects of the wind and their corresponding velocity can be found in the 1931 Service Rifle Pamphlet produced by the US Army Infantry Team. The information is as relevant now as it was then.

• 0-3 mph Wind hardly felt, but smoke drifts
• 3-5 mph Wind felt lightly on the face
• 5-8 mph Leaves are kept in constant movement
• 8-12 mph Raises dust and loose paper
• 12-15 mph Causes small trees to sway

The direction must next be determined. Flags are a useful utility in determining wind direction and value. When discussing the wind, we use the “clock system”. The direction of fire is always “12 o’clock”. The following picture illustrates the direction of the wind and its Value relative to your direction of fire.

The Value of the wind is as important as its speed when deciding the proper windage to place on the rifle. A 10 MPH wind from “12 o-clock” has No Value, hence it will not effect the flight of the bullet. A 10 MPH wind from “3 o’clock”, however, would be classified as Full Value. Failure to correct for a Full Value wind will surely result in a less than desirable result.

The first question you must ask yourself is, “how much is the wind worth?” The effect of the wind on your bullet is a result of a combination of factors, such as: the caliber and weight of the bullet, its ballistic efficiency and the time of flight. I recommend the following, simple method. This method relies on knowing how much the wind will move the strike of your round at 600 yards, given a velocity of 1 MPH, at Full Value.

For example, a 1 MPH Full Value wind will move AMU’s 600 yard ammunition approximately 3 inches at 600 yards. At 600 yards, 3 inches equates to ½ Minute of Angle (MOA). We will refer to this as our 1 MPH Constant. If you know the wind’s speed and Value, your initial estimate will be both quick and accurate. Furthermore, if the condition changes while you are shooting, you will be able to formulate a correction without stopping to consult your ballistic program and portable abacus.

Let’s go through this example. As you approach the firing line, the flags are blowing from left to right, indicating a left wind. The wind is a Full Value wind from “9 o’clock.” You estimate the speed at 8 MPH. Our 1 MPH Constant is ½ MOA. Multiplying 8 times ½, gives us a wind correction of 4 MOA. If the wind were Half Value, our correction would be 2 MOA.

An initial wind correction is only that, what the correction is at the start of firing. During the 20 minutes allotted to firing the 600-yard stage of the National Match Course, conditions can vary greatly. Keep the following factors in mind when analyzing the conditions and formulating your strategy.

1. The Importance of a No-Wind Zero. This is the sight setting required to hit the center of the target in a “no-wind” condition. This zero is best determined at close range, on a calm day.
2. Determination of the predominant condition. Wind will usually manifest a predominant condition with some variations. This condition and its strength (remember the 1 MPH Constant) are best observed prior to firing.
3. The value of the strength of the extremes. When wind is switching direction during a string of fire, the strength of the extremes must be known. Again, this is best determined prior to firing.
4. Distinguish the indicators available to you. Identify the upwind and downwind side of the range. The upwind flags are more important during firing, especially when attempting to discover an imminent change.
5. Determine the accuracy of the mirage. Mirage is the reflection of light through layers of air that have different temperatures than the ground. These layers are blown by the wind and can be monitored to detect wind direction and speed.
6. Focus your scope midway between yourself and the target, this will make mirage appear more prominent. I must emphasize the importance of experience when using mirage as a wind-reading tool. The best way to become proficient in the use of mirage is to correlate its appearance to a known condition. Using this as a baseline, changes in mirage can be equated to changes in the value of the wind. Above all, you must practice this skill!
7. Always know, with absolute certainty, how much wind adjustment you have on the rifle. If there is a pick-up in the velocity of the wind, attempt to think of its new value in Minutes, not with the mindset “that it’s a minute more than the last shot.” This will allow you to think of the wind condition in terms of its actual strength in Minutes of Angle. Critical thinking will result in a rapid improvement in your ability to read the wind.

The last piece of advice has more to do with sportsmanship than the technical skills of wind reading. You must maintain your composure and sense of humor at all times. Learn from your mistakes, and those of others. Your attitude on the firing line is directly proportionate to your ability to react positively to adversity.

Good luck and good shooting!

Rifle Cleaning and Maintenance >Rifle Cleaning and Maintenance

By SSG William T. Pace, USAMU Service Rifle Team Member

This article will cover one of the many reliable techniques to clean your rifle. The two main reasons we clean our rifles are to maintain consistency in accuracy and to help prevent any possible malfunctions. The cleaning of your rifle can be broken down into four steps: cleaning the barrel, cleaning the chamber, cleaning the bolt, and cleaning the lower receiver.

Cleaning the Barrel
The first thing to consider before cleaning your barrel is your cleaning rod. It is best to use a one piece, coated rod. If you have a sectional rod, I would advise you to get rid of it, as it may scratch the bore. Always use a bore guide when you clean your barrel. This is crucial because it provides proper alignment for the rod and allows you to clean the barrel from the chamber end out, rather than from the muzzle end. It also provides protection for the chamber, throat, rifling and crown.

Start by soaking a patch with a good carbon cutter. (In this article I’m going to use Hoppes #9 as my example. While product names are used, other products are available and the Army is not a compensated endorser of any of the stated products.) Once you have soaked the patch, run it through the barrel and repeat that process three times. All of us on the Army Service Rifle Team use a pointed jag with Pro Shot patches; it’s a very good combination. Brushing the barrel is the next step. Use a copper or nylon brush; do not use a steel brush because it will scratch the barrel. Brush the barrel 10-12 times. Then run two wet patches followed by one dry patch down the barrel.

Now move to a copper removal solvent (In this article I’m going to use Sweets as my example.) Soak a patch with Sweets and run it through the barrel, let it soak for 3-5 minutes. If you are using Sweets, do not let it soak for more than ten minutes! After you have let it soak you can either continue to run wet patches down the barrel until the patches come out fairly clean or brush the barrel with the Sweets. If you do decide to brush the barrel with Sweets, be sure to use a nylon brush. Sweets will eat the copper bristles off of a copper brush rendering it worthless after one cleaning. Which ever method you choose, you need to neutralize the Sweets. You can do this by rodding your barrel with a patch wet with Hoppes, followed by a dry patch. Continue that process until the patches come out clean. Cleaning the crown is the final part of cleaning the barrel. To clean the crown, use a Q-tip soaked in Hoppes followed by a dry one. Repeat that sequence until the crown appears clean.

Cleaning the Chamber
Begin cleaning the chamber using a chamber rod and chamber brush. Take a 30 cal or 7.62 patch and tightly wrap it around the chamber brush. Soak the patch with Hoppes and run it into the chamber, repeating that process three times. Next, dry it out using two dry patches. If you have a lug recess cleaning head, use it after the two dry patches on the chamber brush. Apply the same technique of one Hoppes soaked cotton swab, followed by one dry cotton swab, and repeat that twice. If you do not have a lug recess cleaning head, the 30 cal. patch wrapped around the chamber brush works fine. Once the chamber is clean and dried out, use a rag and a little Hoppes to wipe out the inside of the upper receiver. With the inside of the upper receiver and chamber clean, insert the bore guide and run one more dry patch through the barrel. The reason for this is that some of the solvent may leak into the rifling while cleaning the chamber.

Cleaning the Bolt
Cleaning the bolt is the easiest process. A rag and a little Hoppes works fine for cleaning the outside of the bolt carrier. Clean the inside of the bolt carrier applying the same technique used to clean the chamber. With the bolt disassembled, clean the inside of the bolt body, using Hoppes and Q-tips. Be sure to dry it out once it is clean. The outside of the bolt can be cleaned with a rag and some Hoppes. If there is significant amounts of carbon build up on the outside of the bolt near the rings, you can use a razor blade or small knife as a scrapping tool to break it loose. Another option is to take an old chamber brush or an old bore brush soaked in Hoppes and brush it over the carbon build up to break it loose. Once the carbon is broken free, simply use a rag to wipe it clean. If you seem to have a lot of carbon build up after firing a match, you might consider either using a different lubricant or lubricating your bolt more frequently. If you use a good lubricant and re-lubricate your bolt every 20-30 shots during the match, it will help the rifle function correctly and make cleaning a lot easier.

Cleaning the Lower Receiver
The lower receiver is also a very simple process. Use a rag to wipe off everything that you can and use Q-tips for the hard to reach spots. You can also use Gun Scrubber, Does It All, or any one of these types of aerosol cleaning agents for the lower receiver and trigger mechanism. It is not necessary, however, to use these products for every cleaning. Some prefer to use it only after every 500 rounds or so. If you do use these products to clean the trigger, be sure to re-grease and lubricate the trigger mechanism after each application.

I hope that you are now familiar with the tools and techniques used to clean your barrel, chamber, bolt and lower receiver. Whether you follow the exact process outlined in this article, or you create your own routine, it is very important that you clean your rifle the same way, every time. Cleaning the rifle with a consistent technique will help you to be aware of any changes in your rifle and to insure that none of these steps is neglected.

Developing a Training Plan an"'>Developing a Training Plan

By SFC Lance Dement, USAMU Service Rifle Team Member

The first thing I do when preparing my training plan is to take a good hard look at where I am right now. I look at my data book and chart my match and training scores for the last year. I break them down by position and 10-shot string averages. After plotting my scores, I can identify the areas that need the most improvement. Why train 90% of the time sitting rapid-fire when you lose 70% of your points in the offhand position? I then assess my guns, ammunition and equipment. I also look at my physical training level and identify strengths and weaknesses there.

Arguably the most important step you will take when preparing your training plan, is to set realistic goals. I like to set both performance and score oriented goals. An example of a performance-oriented goal would be “I will follow through on my shots offhand.” I track this in my data book; regardless of the value of the shot. If my follow through was good, then the goal was met. A score oriented goal would be “I will shoot a 95 or better on all offhand strings”. Adding the “or better” to this goal will insure the goal will not limit my performance. I like my goals to be positive and avoid using words such as don’t, never, must, need, etc. When you set your goals, be honest and set goals that are challenging to you, but with some effort are attainable.

I feel it is also helpful to include a calendar in my training plan. On my calendar I fill in all major match dates, training match dates and range training days. I will also block out dates when training is not an option, such as vacation days or holidays. Some other things that go in my calendar are times to load and test ammo, dry firing, equipment maintenance and travel time. It is also important to include a physical training program. You accomplish two things by writing these items into your calendar. This helps you analyze whether you have a realistic amount of time to accomplish the training you are planning. It also helps you implement a system that you are more likely to follow. If your plans are written into your calendar, you can more easily hold yourself accountable for them.

Goals are not always met and a good training plan must be flexible. Your plan will inevitably run into some problems that you cannot control, such as a rained out match, a broken rifle or family commitments. Review your plan often and make the necessary changes to get it back on track. A good training plan will allow you to use your time more effectively and be one of the shooters expecting to win rather than one who is just emptying brass.

No-Wind Zero and Marking Your Sights Sights

By SFC Jason St. John, USAMU Service Rifle Team Member

There is no question about it, to consistently hit the X-ring you need accurate elevation and windage zeros. These zeros change as you increase distance, and may possibly change as you gain experience. These changes are apparent in a well kept Data Book. To calculate your zeros, starting points are needed. You can establish starting points for your service rifle sights by marking them to give you a reference point for calculating your zeros.

The first point you need to establish is your elevation zero. When marking your elevation starting point, bottom out your elevation wheel and count up 2 ½ Minutes of Angle (MOA). Coming up 2 ½ MOA allows room to adjust your zero. You do not want your zero to be at the bottom of the elevation wheel. Distinctively mark your elevation wheel using finger nail polish, a paint pen or something similar so this mark will not easily rub off. After your sights are marked you will be ready to zero your rifle for any given distance.

When establishing your elevation zero, make initial elevation adjustments using the front sight post. Once your shots are in the black, fine tune your zero with your elevation wheel. Once you have determined your zero, count the clicks back to the mark on your elevation wheel, and record this number in your Data Book. This will serve as your first yard line zero.

The next mark you should make on your sights is on the windage knob. Begin by centering your rear aperture. Do this by counting how many clicks it takes to move your sights completely from the left to right. Once you have this number move the sights to the center by counting halfway back. You may also be able to center your sights by using the tick marks that are on the sight and rear aperture. It is recommended that you do the latter, if possible. When you are centered, mark the center point on your windage knob and the rear sight housing as you did for elevation. This will give you a starting point to return to.

Now that you have a windage starting point you need to establish a no-wind zero that will keep shots consistently in the middle of the target. A no-wind zero is a sight setting that allows you to hit the center of the target in a no-wind condition, and is best determined at close range. Once you are confident you have a no-wind zero, count the clicks back to your windage starting point and record this information in your Data Book. If you do not have an accurate no-wind zero, your windage corrections will be off. With a correct no-wind zero you can be ready for any wind conditions.

When shooting in a windy condition you must determine the distance that the bullet would be blown, and zero the rifle by applying this difference to the rifle sight. For example, if you determine the wind will move the bullet three minutes to the right then the zero needs to be offset three minutes to the right.

By having zero starting points and refined zeros you should be able to significantly improve your scores. Through practice where you constantly strive to move your groups to the center you will be able to achieve the consistency in keeping your shot groups centered that is needed to be a champion. Good shooting and good luck!

It’s Just a Sling

By SFC Lance Dement, USAMU Service Rifle Team Member

I feel there are only two things more important to a rifle shooter than a sling; these are the gun and ammo! The service rifle sling is often underrated or even misused. If you are reading this article you have probably used a service rifle sling in one way or another. The best way to learn how to correctly put a sling on a rifle is to talk to experienced shooters. Then try their various methods to see which one or perhaps a combination of methods will work best for you. There is no one absolute right way, but I will give you some things to consider in helping you use your sling more effectively.

The first and, probably most important, thing is to mark your sling. I prefer my sling to be numbered rather than marking it for each position. Numbering your sling will allow for changes in the future. For example as your sling gets older it may stretch, or a younger shooter may grow and have to move their sling setting. I have also learned on some ranges the angle to the target or the slope of the firing line will cause me to take up or let out one notch on my sling. I frequently see new shooters using half of their prep time relearning their sling settings. However, marking your sling won’t do you any good if you don’t record the settings you use for each position.

I have seen some shooters use very elaborate methods of rigging their slings for the offhand position. They will inevitably use a lot of their sitting prep time to remove and reset their slings. I like to keep things simple, for standing I use a parade sling (the sling is tight on the right or left side of the magazine well.) As soon as I fire my last shot standing I put in my ECI, and remove my magazine. Before I move off the line I adjust the length of the sling for the sitting position. I unhook the bottom part of my sling and remove it from the rear sling swivel and hook it on to itself. I do this to keep the unused part of the sling out of my way. Some shooters leave this end attached to the butt of the gun or wrapped around their upper arm. Both methods are fine; they can just take more time or make movement with the rifle more difficult. By making these adjustments after my last shot standing, I do not use up my sitting prep time messing with the sling.

The last thing I would like to cover is maintenance of your sling. Keeping your sling in good working condition is easy and requires only minimum time and effort. I have used the same sling for nine years. It has been rained on and snowed on; it has been in hot and humid conditions and has also seen the high desert. I inspect my sling on a regular basis, usually in the morning when I am prepping my rifle to go down range. I check for cracks in the leather, which are most often found near the front sling swivel. I then check the sling keepers, paying close attention to the stitching, here you need to check for dry rot, or if the stitching itself is coming undone. I use a leather conditioner on my sling every three to four months or after the sling is exposed to rain or snow. When the sling itself is getting thin or showing excessive stretch it is time for a new one. I also carry a back up sling with me. My back up sling is not brand new; it is one I have used before during practice or for dry firing. Brand new slings tend to be hard to adjust and feel very different when in position. They may stretch excessively during the first month or two of usage. It is good to check your back up sling against your primary sling to ensure the markings are the same or if not, make note of the difference.

Shooters who are familiar with their sling, know how it works and have it properly marked will have greater consistency from day to day whether in training or in matches. The few extra minutes it takes to ensure that your sling is in working order may be the difference between your best day on the range and a wasted trip.

As a competitor and observer of many rifle matches, the one thing I notice shooters forgetting to do on a regular basis is updating their data book. A data book is a valuable tool for the shooter. It allows you to have a daily journal of your shooting performance. This journal can and should be referenced every time a shooter steps on the range. When reviewing your data book you will be able to compare the conditions you face today with your previous performances in similar conditions.

When you look at a data book, you will notice that there are many different sections. Each section is important to fill out, however some are more important than others. For example, the date, target number and relay number are important to you as a reminder, but not important as a performance measure. The real meat and potatoes of the data book lies in the environmental, no wind and corrected zero, called and plotted shots, and performance notes section.

The environmental sections include places to record wind direction and speed, temperature and light direction and condition; some may have a place to record humidity.

WIND: Wind direction and speed play important roles in the placement of shot groups. Therefore it is important to annotate the conditions that you shoot in. Then, if you encounter the same conditions the following day or a couple of days later, you can see how that condition affected your performance.

Our team records the wind speed in MPH. You can estimate this by feel or use a wind meter. Generally a close estimation will be precise enough. We record the direction of the wind with a simple arrow. The direction of the wind is observed by the range flags or by simple feel. You could also record the value of the wind, that is as full value, half value, no value, or something in between.

LIGHT: Changes in light conditions and direction can affect your ability to place your shot group in the center of the target. The direction that a range faces and where the sun is in relation to you can alter your perception of both the sights and the target. By keeping an accurate record in your data book you will see how light affects your performance.

Light conditions are kept in generalized terms such as: Cloudy, bright, partly cloudy, dark, hazy, clear, and whatever else you can use to describe the day that you are encountering. You may also note the light conditions of the target. This may help you in deciding which hold you are going to use for that day.

Show the direction with an arrow. Simply orient the data book down range and stand your pen up, similar to a sundial, and mark where the shadow lies. You may also wish to keep track of where the sun is. If it is early morning or close to evening, the sun may also affect you.

TEMPERATURE: Temperature and humidity affect the elevation setting required to hit the center of the target. Use this section to record the temperature and humidity when you are shooting to see how this affects you. You can record it in general terms such as: Hot, cool, mild, warm, muggy, humid, dry, etc. You can also be more precise by using a thermometer. You can also get this info from the newspaper or internet reports.

The performance section of your data book should include sections for: No wind and corrected zeroes, called and plotted shots, sight picture, and performance notes.

ZEROES: For obvious reasons, you must keep track of your zeros. However, as you travel to other ranges you may have shifts in your zeroes. Most of these shifts occur because of the aforementioned environmental changes, but they can also occur because of the layout of the range. For example, if the targets are higher or lower than the firing line of your home range, you zero for that range may be different.

You should track your no wind zero. A no wind zero is a sight setting that allows you to hit the center of your target in a no wind condition. It is the zero that you are going to put on your gun to start with. A no wind zero includes elevation and windage zeroes.

When you are done with shooting, you should immediately count off your zeroes and annotate any changes that you had. Do not be afraid to change your zeroes during your sighting period or between strings. Make sure you record your new zeroes and start with those the next day.

SHOTS: Keeping track of your plotted shots in comparison with your called shots will allow you to see trends or patterns in your groups. This will allow you to make the appropriate corrections to keep your groups centered.

By observing where your front sight post is the moment that the shot breaks, you will be able to call your shot. A called shot is where you think that shot will be on the target. After the target is marked you will be able to tell if you are "on call". If you are on call then all is well. However, if you are not on call then some sort of sight adjustment must be made. Keeping track of called shots may help indicate necessary adjustments. A mistake that I see shooters’ making is recording the score or value of their shots in the spaces provided.

Plotting your shots is simply marking them in your data book where the shots come up when the target is marked. During your performance you may see that you are "building" on one side of the target. This should tell you that some sight adjustment is needed. If you notice at the end of your performance that you were on one side of the target make sure that you move your zeroes to the center After taking the wind into account, you will be able to make this your no wind zero.

Your data book should also have a place to record the wind that you either have on the gun or the wind that you used for the string of firing. Be sure to record the wind that you have on the gun as you go so you do not get "lost:. You should always know how much wind is on your gun.

PERFORMANCE NOTES: Our data book has a section dedicated to the lessons of the day. Included in this section should be anything that affected your shooting, positive or negative. This section is not for excuses, but instead is for recording lessons that can help you the next time. Generally try to describe the positive things you accomplished that day. If you figured something out, use this section as a reminder of what you learned and how to apply it again.

You can also use this section to record your sight picture. It is important to remember what you used and how it affected your zero. From day to day a line of white, or any other hold, may look a little different. If you keep track of what you were seeing, then you will be able to use that hold on similar days.

Your data book is a valuable tool that is often overlooked. If you do not have a data book, then invest in one. You can even make your own. By reviewing your performances and utilizing the history that the data book provides, your performances should improve.

SSG Emil Praslick (r.) instructs another shooter in a service rifle clinic during the 2005 Western CMP Games and Creedmoor Cup Matches.

Bare Necessities for Highpower Rifle Competition

By SPC Nathan J. Verbickas, USAMU Service Rifle Team Member

Whether you watched someone compete in a Highpower Match, or have just heard conversation about it, it's clear that something has peaked your interest in the sport. Being interested in something is great, but without information, it won't get you very far. We have heard new shooters ask people on the range what they need to do to get into Highpower and the responses that a lot of people give are scary! The next thing you know, you are in the store spending a few thousand dollars without even knowing why. In an attempt to avoid this situation, lets sit down and talk about some of the essentials, and more important information associated with the sport of Highpower Rifle Competition.

In most cases, it is entirely possible to compete in a match without buying anything. We will go over the few things that you do need to have to compete, which usually all can be found by just asking around. Does it make more sense to try the sport and make sure that it is something you want to pursue fully before spending a good amount of money? I have been in gun shops in the past and witnessed people trying to return a lot of very expensive shooting equipment because they just did not end up enjoying the sport. Yes, it happens.

The first thing that all new shooters need to understand is that they are entering a sport that is already established. As with any other sport, there are rules and regulations which can be confusing at times. You will also be competing shoulder to shoulder with people of all different classifications and experience levels. This includes shooters who may be in contention to win whatever match it is that you have decided to enter. With that being said, one of the first things that you should track down is the most up to date versions of the NRA Highpower Rifle Rules booklet and the CMP Competition Rules. These can be found easily on-line or by contacting each organization. Believe me when I say that your firm knowledge of these rules will make for a far less painful day wherever you may be competing.

Section 6.0 of your CMP Rulebook and Section 3 of your NRA Rulebook defines authorized equipment. Obviously, you will need a rifle. Pay close attention to the types of rifles described in these sections as authorized. More often than not, people are surprised to find that they already own or know someone who owns an authorized Highpower Rifle. Most clubs and associations that support a Highpower program at their range will have service rifles for new shooters to use in their competitions. There may be a raised match entry fee for this service. If you have no luck after checking these resources, it may be necessary to purchase a rifle. Another call to the CMP can usually help with this. Be sure when you do find a rifle, that you have a minimum of two clips or magazines for that specific system. The other obvious requirement to compete would be ammunition, which is defined in CMP Rule 6.6 or NRA Rule 3.17.

Now we will take a look at some of the less obvious requirements defined in these rules. Contrary to popular belief, a sling is required in service rifle competition. It is listed in CMP Rule 6.1.1 and NRA Rules 3.1, 3.1.1, and 3.1.2 as a characteristic of the rifle itself. The sling may be used for support in the Prone, Sitting, and Kneeling positions, but not the Standing position. During Standing, the sling must be attached to both the front and rear sling swivels (CMP Rule 8.1.3(1) and NRA Rule 5.12b). Don't let this worry you. If you haven't found a sling in the same place that you found your rifle, a simple M-1 web sling can be purchased for about ten dollars. Sling features are defined in CMP Rule 6.1.1 (3) and NRA Rule 3.13. Another required item is the Empty Chamber Indicator (ECI), according to CMP Rule 5.5.1 and NRA Rule 3.21. This is a crucial part of Highpower Safety. The ECI is to be in the chamber of your rifle at all times other than your preparation period, while actually firing, and when cased. An ECI can be purchased from the NRA for one dollar. The final thing that is required for competition is Responsibility. This includes Safety, Discipline, and Etiquette. And yes it is required, by the rules in CMP Section 5.0 and NRA Section 18, and your own common sense. As a part of your responsibility, you need to realize that this sport is not just about your shooting. It is about everyone’s shooting. This is why you are responsible for pit pulling and scoring duties (CMP Rule 5.3 and NRA Sections 10 and 14 respectively) as well. These duties are just as important as your firing. Always strive to give better pit and scoring service than you receive.

With your understanding of the importance of scoring and pit pulling during a match, we will discuss some things that are not required, but strongly encouraged. In order to properly perform your scoring duties, you should have a few pens, a stool or chair, a Ziploc bag (in case of rain), and some type of optics. Keep in mind; you will be firing out to 600 yards in most courses of fire. At this distance, you will probably not be able to see the scoring disks, or even the chalkboards during rapid fires. Again, don't be concerned. These are all things that you more than likely already have. You do not need an expensive spotting scope. A pair of binoculars would be sufficient. Something else that is inexpensive and genuinely advised in the sport is eye and ear protection. Highpower matches are not exactly short. It is a long process that takes a large portion of the day. You need to take this into account before leaving for the range. A small cooler of snacks and plenty of water is something that you will never regret bringing.

That about does it for the necessities. Right now, you are at the bare minimum of what you need to complete a match. There is some other equipment that is nice to have, and can be substituted to save money. It is a matter of personal choice if and when you want to use any of the following. You will be shooting outdoors, and at times, in adverse conditions. Rain gear is usually helpful in this situation. The classic garbage bag poncho is a cheap alternative, though it doesn't breathe very well. If you decide to only bring out one set of rain gear, do the right thing and give it to your rifle. A rifle case is a helpful addition, for transportation purposes, but should still be covered in the rain. Also bring a small bottle of lubrication, and use it; especially if your rifle does get wet. If you don't like lying on the wet ground, a mat, piece of carpet, or even a poncho could be used as long as it does not create artificial support. You do not need a $300 shooting coat, but something to pad your shoulder from recoil and your arm from the sling, is useful. Many people use a simple issue field jacket, or a sweatshirt. Any kind of a glove that might cut down on the pinching of the sling on your hand, as well. If you own them, try to wear your boots instead of your shoes. It will provide you more support for shooting, and just in general over the day. You may want to bring a towel to wipe away annoying sweat while shooting. Be sure to keep yourself organized. A small backpack can make your life much easier on the range.

Well, that is what to bring to the range. But when? A brand new shooter does not want to fire their first competition at the National Matches. Find that local gun club that supports a Highpower Program and ask questions. A list of CMP Affiliated Rifle Matches can be found at http://clubs.odcmp.com/cgi-bin/matchUpcomingSearch.cgi?designation=EICRIFLE. The more information you have, the better off you will be. Get a copy of their match schedule, and make a plan. Find out the course of fire for the match you will be firing and ensure that you have enough ammunition for your record shots, sighters, and possible alibis. Learn the stages of fire and range commands for the course of fire you will be shooting. All of this information can be found in your CMP and NRA Rulebooks. This information will seriously cut back on confusion throughout the day. You should have your rifle zeroed and ready to go before you try to compete. You do not need to be a member of the NRA to enter in NRA Approved Matches. If you are not already a member, you can still shoot in competition, although membership is not a bad idea.

I hope that you do enjoy the sport, and stick with it. As you shoot more, your knowledge of the sport will progress, and with knowledge will come the skill. With the skill, will come an excuse to start buying stuff. Safe and Happy Shooting!